Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Week 3- Leggings; 'Abstracting/Deforming the body's form'.





"Fashion is conceptual and functional; its compelling nature is that it can be either or both" -(a quote from ‘Breaking the Mode’ by Kaye Durland Spiker & Sharon Sadako Takeda)


I found that this quote is an accurate summary of stretch wear particularly this generic garment project. We are learning about the generic items of stretch wear that are worn and popularised solely for functional purposes and we have been given the task to conceptualise these generic items proving that a garment can be both functional and conceptual. Progressively in this studio I have observed that stretch fabrics have the ability to create endless possibilities in terms of drape, shape and fit. The pattern making process for the design exercises we have toiled so far have been based purely on one’s instinct and vision, there are no rules, but merely judgement. The final result cannot be determined until it has been tested. In order to achieve the perfect/desired fit, shape or drape, a number of alterations would need to be made after each toile.
This week I documented a number of body experiments for the leggings exercise before I came upon my final idea-which is still in the stage of development. Endeavouring to deform and distort the natural contour of the body I found the shape of gloves mesmerizing, exploring the interesting forms and movement that a glove or numerous gloves can make through drape or being blown up. Focusing on further research I happened to stumble across the Comme des Garcons collection that incorporated gloves- such a simple and basic item that has been revolutionised to structure as part of a garment as opposed to being a separately worn accessory. I am looking forward to seeing how this idea will translate as patterns and finally as a garment-will the outcome be a success of failure? I ask myself.








(Comme des Garcons image from http://www.textilemuseum.org/images/exhibitions/JapaneseContemp/Kawakubo_Dress%20Gloves%20Hatweb.jpg)

Friday, March 19, 2010

WEEK 2- Singlets; the idea of the 'body conscious' garment




I found the process of fitting or I suppose ‘sculpting the garment to the body’ using the fabric gave me a better understanding of construction and how obviously the body is a contour form with 3-dimension not a flat surface.
Form fitting garments are often seen in today’s culture. People feel they have to extenuate and show every curve of the body as apposed to hiding it in volume, as there is a general idea of it being more arousing.
"Eroticism, is another word for that brief moment when skin flashes out from behind the cloth. Where even nakedness signifies a kind of being dressed. For the human figure to appear in its naturally beautiful incarnation the material element must be made to disappear."-(from the Fashion Zeitgeist written by Barbara Vinken).
I felt that this quote was a very interesting view about I suppose the correct terminology would be ‘form fitting or ‘body conscious’ garments. It evoked quite a bit of thought in me when I was experimenting with the cut and paste exercise. The idea of subtle eroticism and how this could be achieved. Another concept I chose to experiment with for this exercise was finishes, I almost feel like I went overboard with finishes in my finished toile for the exercise, however I feel I have achieved what I have intened..and that was purely to experiment. One can only discover greater prospects through trial and error. Note the colour of the lace is not something I would chose to use if given the option.








(above two images from https://apps.ngv.vic.gov.au/productImages/pub_SuperBodies_S.jpg
http://www.noonewatching.com/archives/2009/03/warhol%20barbie%20portrat.jpg)

Wednesday, March 10, 2010

Week 1- The never aging T-shirt....

(top images from:

On reflecting about the introduction to this ‘generic garment’ investigation, I wondered what makes a garment ‘generic’? And in this case specifically the T-shirt. An item of clothing that is safe to say is worn by every single living human being at some stage in their life, generally throughout ones entire span of life. Even though I myself wear t-shirts regularly I have never really thought in depth about what makes this item of clothing so popular and how it originated, until now- as this first introduction to stretch wear compels me to. Used so widely due to its simmplicity, comfort factors, and very highly as a basis of product promotion(through graphics or slogans). A t-shirt can (apparently) be defined as a shirt which is PULLED over the head to COVER most of a person’s torso. And is simply named due to the shape of the garment.
Thus in trying to think of ways of altering the t-shirt whilst trying to maintain an essence of its purpose and in doing so keeping it a t-shirt, regardless or not whether it still looks like one, I kept the idea of the item being ‘pulled’ and thought of how much and what it ‘cover(s)’ in mind in my design process. In order to assist my design progression I got an old t-shirt, cut it up and fiddled around with how it would look if I changed certain construction steps of it. The outcome: a dismantled, twisted, cropped item of clothing fondly enough still considered a‘t-shirt’.